Letter From Hawaii

G F G F G Howzit, bruddah? F Peter and I went out to Hana Bay last Wednesday. G F It was a perfect 6 foot down the line and crowded. G F I went out at Sugar Shack which was 5 foot and semi- closing out. G F It was fun, a little better and faster than that first day we went out but G F definitely not as juicy as the last. G Longboard Larry and Amazing Mike paddled out. F The sets were OK, but it was a long time between waves. G F Three days ago was the biggest swell of the year. G F G F Animal and I drove to Hana Bay, but it was 20 foot and unrideable (whitewater everywhere). G F We drove back to Cracks and it was 5 to 6 foot with 3 guys out. G F They paddled in and I talked to them. In the morning they said it was 3 foot. G When I first got there it was 5 to 6 foot. F G J.P. drove up and we both decided to go out and we saw an F 8 to 10 foot set break across the bay, G nobody was out and we started paddling out F G when we saw an easily 10 foot wave break across the channel. F While waiting for a set of at least 6 waves to stop, G F I started getting sucked out to the point on the right in a river riptide. G F G I paddled back to the beach realizing that it was peaking or still getting bigger. F G J.P. paddled out, caught 2 waves and came in, as it was too F freaky and hard to line up with nobody out. G F About an hour later it got really crowded and cleaned up a bit. G F Jerry Mopehead went out so I took pictures of him and Max and a lot of other hotties. G F G One guy got washed up on the rocks below me. He was lucky. F G F At least the rip didn't drag him out to sea. Cords were useless. G F They snapped like peanut brittle. G F I heard the second ditch at Ammunition Dump was good on Sunday. G F Also that the left near the sewage treatment plant, which rarely breaks, was good. G Well that's enough news for now. Gotta get back in the water. G ALOHA! G P.S. Don't come over here.